Washing machine repair service in Coimbatore

If you’re looking for reliable and affordable washing machine service in Coimbatore, look no further than Coimbatore Service Center. We are your trusted partner for all washing machine repair and maintenance needs, offering expert solutions to keep your machine running smoothly.

Why Choose Coimbatore Service Center for Washing Machine Service?

We work with several types of failure in washing machines. Please contact if you notice that:

Common Washing Machine Problems We Fix

Don’t let a malfunctioning washing machine disrupt your routine. Trust Coimbatore Service Center for professional and efficient washing machine service in Coimbatore. Call us now at 9092404427 to book your service!

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Searched for one of these services

  • Power outages.
  • Fuse blown.
  • Violation of the integrity of the power cord, outlet, extension cord.
  • Faulty mains filter or its wiring.
  • Bad contact of the "Start" button with the microcontroller.
  • Broken hatch lock.
  • If the heating element breaks down, the machine can not only wash in cold water, but also not work at all.
  • Drive belt worn.
  • Violation of internal wiring.
  • If the drum in the washing machine does not work, and when scrolling makes a creaking sound, it may have flown out of its place.
  • Engine breakdown (graphite brushes are worn out, lamellas are damaged, stator and rotor wiring shorted).
  • Failure or breakdown of the electronic control unit, as a result of which the engine does not receive a command to start work.

  • The latch does not work.
  • Sagging hinges and loose fasteners.
  • The electronic door lock does not work.
  • No signal is given to the sunroof locking device due to a failure in the control unit.

  • The panel is equipped with a childproof protection.
  • Mechanical damage to the hatch latch.
  • Sagging hinges or loose fasteners.
  • The electronic door lock does not work.
  • The water from the tank has not drained, for the sake of safety, the machine does not unlock the hatch (blockage or malfunction in the water drain system, malfunction of the water level sensor).
  • Electronic software failure in which the board does not send a signal to the sunroof lock device.
  • Electronic control module defective.

  • If the voltage level is too low or exceeds 220W, the washing machine will not start.
  • Childproof lock is on.
  • In modern models equipped with sensors, the wash does not start if there are too many items loaded.
  • The self-diagnosis system notifies about the presence of an error and can show a malfunction code on the display.
  • The sunroof lock control unit is defective, so the machine does not start washing.
  • The machine warns against the breakdown of the heating element.
  • Problems detected with the pump.
  • A malfunction of the electric motor has been identified.
  • Control board malfunction.

  • In this situation, you need to immediately call the master to find out the reasons for which the traffic jams or the machine were knocked out!
  • Failure of the surge protector.
  • Shorting of the power cord or outlet (the wiring will darken, the outlet will melt, the smell of burnt plastic is felt).
  • A short in the wiring that goes to the electric motor, pump, heating element, sensors, UBL and other elements due to burnout of terminals or breakage.
  • Installation of an unsuitable protective device and a difavtomat.
  • Closing the buttons on the control panel (most often the start key).
  • Breakdown and short circuit of the electric heater (interturn short circuit or winding breakage)
  • Short circuit in the control module.

  • White streaks on dark fabrics indicate an overdose of powder or an excess of the load rate and a deterioration in the rinsing quality.
  • If bleach is used incorrectly, blue-scale marks (purple, lilac, gray-gray) may appear on white products.
  • The manifestation of fats due to interaction with heated water.
  • If the cuff of the hatch or the tank is dirty, gray marks may remain on light laundry.
  • If a corroded metal object gets caught in the cuff, it may cause rust stains after a while.
  • If brown, orange and yellow stains appear on things after washing, the source of the pollution may lie in rusty water after repairing the main pipelines.
  • Due to worn drum seals, traces of oil, fuel oil or rust appear on the washed clothes.
  • Stains and unpleasant odors from laundry due to mildew in the detergent dispenser, cuff, drum, tub or nozzles.
  • If rusty marks appear after drying, then it is time to change the dryer.

  • Overloading laundry can slip under the cuff into the gap between the drum and tub.
  • A foreign object stuck in the perforation of the drum (for example, a metal bra bone, hairpins, nails, screws)
  • Seizures and burrs on the smooth surface of the drum catch clothes during washing, leave puffs and holes on them.
  • The play and gap between the edges of the tub and drum due to bearing wear, where the laundry gets into, chews and breaks.
  • Due to a damaged oil seal, dark bearing grease gets into the tank, and the laundry starts to get dirty during washing.

  • At the slightest electric shock, the device must be disconnected from the mains, and the cause of the malfunction identified and eliminated!
  • There is no grounding.
  • Damaged electrical wiring or ground wires.
  • Damage to the heating element (heating element).
  • Engine breakdown.

  • If the washing machine sparks from underneath, it is most often the spark from the motor brushes. Sparking occurs when brushes are worn to a point where contact is still present but not sufficiently stable.
  • When there is a spark at the bottom of the washing machine, sparks can come from the engine motor if the sipes break.
  • If sparks are visible through the door of the drum compartment, the heating element sparks.

  • Do not use a sparkling washing machine, it is dangerous!
  • Sometimes the brushes of a new car are not yet very worn and may spark.
  • Short circuit in the wiring.
  • Shorted the tubular electric heater.
  • The wear of the brushes of the electric motor leads to the fact that when moving they do not come into contact with the collector too tightly, which can cause sparks.
  • The machine generates sparks due to wear on the collector fins.
  • Turn-to-turn short circuit or open circuit of the motor winding.
  • Short circuit in the control module due to voltage surges.

  • Breakage of the heating element.
  • Faulty water temperature sensor.
  • Control module malfunction.

  • The drain filter is clogged.
  • The pump impeller is blocked by a foreign object.
  • The pump or drain is clogged.
  • The sewer is clogged.

  • Leakage in the drain filter due to the fact that it is unevenly installed or not fully screwed in.
  • Due to strong vibrations, the fasteners broke or stretched, the joints of the branch pipes and hoses with the parts were weakened.
  • Damaged hose or pipe.
  • If water flows from the turned off machine, the problem is in the filler valve (the diaphragm is damaged, the hose fasteners have come off).
  • The cuff on the drain valve is loose or torn.
  • Broken water drain valve mechanism.
  • The seals on the drain pump are damaged.
  • Drain pump housing cracked.
  • The sealing gum of the hatch is damaged.
  • The drum burst.

  • Fungi and mold have a negative effect on rubber.
  • Sharp objects falling out of pockets can damage the seal.

  • To prevent scale, it is recommended to carry out prophylaxis with special agents or citric acid!
  • In every third washing machine, the reason why the heating element burns out is in too hard water, due to which the plaque settles on the heater and does not allow heat to pass through.
  • Often the cause of the malfunction is a sudden power surge.
  • Sometimes the heater fails due to a pump breakdown (if the pump runs all the time without shutdown, then cold water will constantly flow into the system, which the heating element will try to heat).

  • Something is stuck in the drain pipe or the pipe is bent.
  • Laundry has fallen into the centrifuge drain hole, blocking the drain.
  • The pump may not work if the impeller is blocked by a foreign object.
  • If the impeller breaks down, the water drain slows down or disappears.
  • The pump is not working due to worn bushings.
  • The pump does not turn on due to broken contacts or the pump has burned out.
  • A broken water level sensor can cause pump problems. if the pressure switch does not give correct information about the presence of water in the tank, the pump will not turn on.
  • The problem may be in the control module.

  • Do not start the washing machine with a crack on the glass, even due to microcracks, the glass can burst due to temperature changes and vibration during the washing process!
  • The reason for the appearance of a crack in the glass is most often a mechanical effect: forgotten metal objects falling out of pockets during washing, or damage during transportation. If a crack appears, the glass must be replaced as soon as possible. New glass cannot be found for all washing machine models. Fortunately, the glass of washing machines can be repaired - the gaps are closed with the help of special devices.

  • The contacts leading from the display to the
  • electronic board.
  • Control module malfunction.
  • Display burned out.

  • The filling valve has failed (over time, the valve membrane has been damaged, as a result, water is constantly drawn into the tank).
  • If dirty, waste water appears in the drum, the reason is a blockage in the sewage system (water from the siphon elbow overflows into the tank) or improper connection of the hoses to the sewage system (sewage flows through the hose into the tank).

  • Weak pressure in pipes.
  • Inlet valve closed.
  • The suction hose is pinched or clogged.
  • The drain hose is located low (water is cyclically drawn in and immediately drained)
  • The intake filter is clogged.
  • Filler valve clogged or burnt out.
  • The water level switch is defective (tube clogging or sensor breakage).

  • Defective pressure switch.
  • The pressure switch tube is damaged.
  • The device is not correctly connected to the water supply system.
  • The filler valve is broken (wiring or valve electronics defective).
  • There is a blockage in the drain.

  • Lack of water in the plumbing.
  • Inlet valve closed.
  • Blockage in the filling system.
  • Filling valve defective.
  • If the water level sensor is faulty, the set will not start or the water will drain.
  • A faulty control unit does not give a command for water intake.
  • The hatch blocking device has broken, so the control module does not send a hatch blocking signal and the machine does not start washing.

  • The program is set to wash in cold water
  • Due to too hard water on the heating element. scale is formed, which does not allow heat to pass through.
  • If the hoses are in the wrong position, the water is either collected or drained, so that the heating element does not have time to heat it.

  • The wash program is cold.
  • With the wrong location of the hoses, the water is either collected or drained, and the heating element simply does not have time to heat it.
  • Scale build-up on the heating element.
  • Open circuit of the heating element power supply. Breakage of the heating element.
  • Faulty water temperature sensor.
  • Control module malfunction.

  • Breakage of the heating element.
  • Faulty water temperature sensor.
  • Control module malfunction.

  • The drum bearing has deteriorated, so it cannot rotate normally.
  • A foreign object is caught between the tub and drum.
  • If the drum makes a squeaky sound when scrolling, it may be flying out of place.
  • The Hall sensor, which is responsible for adjusting the speed of the running motor, is faulty
  • Worn out brushes of the electric motor, due to which the drum rotates tightly or slows down while the machine is running.
  • The drive belt has torn or slipped off, wrapped around the pulley and jammed the drum.

  • Severe wear of the brushes or lamellas, due to which the engine loses power and runs in jerks (at the moment when the brushes stop contacting, the engine does not hum, and the drum rotates by inertia until the contact resumes, during the spin cycle the drum does not pick up maximum speed).
  • If there is a problem with the winding, the motor also becomes less powerful.
  • Belt slippage due to wear or elongation.
  • The drum bearing has deteriorated, making it difficult to rotate.
  • The tachogenerator, which is responsible for adjusting the engine speed, is faulty.
  • If the drum rotates hard or jerks, sometimes it jams and wedges, and this is also accompanied by a banging from the case, most likely the problem is in an object stuck between the walls of the tank and drum (often the reason for the jamming of the drum is the bra bones).
  • Broken contacts.
  • Defective control module.

  • Failure to comply with washing load standards. by weight or uneven. distribution of things in the drum.
  • The brushes in the engine are worn out.
  • Motor winding damaged.
  • A worn drum bearing makes it difficult to rotate.
  • Breakdown of the tachogenerator, which is responsible for the engine speed.
  • Failure in program control.
  • A foreign object interferes with the rotation of the drum.
  • Faulty wiring.
  • Failure of the control unit.

  • There is an imbalance in the items in the drum.
  • A foreign object is stuck between the tub and the drum (the drum does not spin in manual mode)
  • The bearing is damaged (the drum does not rotate in manual mode).
  • The heating element has burnt out (when scale forms and the heating element overheats, the machine blocks washing).
  • The drive belt is frayed or fell off.
  • The tachometer (Hall sensor, which is responsible for adjusting the engine speed) is out of order.
  • The electric motor does not work (brushes are worn out, interturn short circuit, winding breakage).
  • Faulty wiring.
  • Defective control board.

  • White stains on dark clothes indicate an overabundance of powder.
  • Excessive loading also leads to the fact that the washing machine does not rinse the laundry well and powder remains.

  • The water drain does not work, water remains in the tank, so rinsing and spinning do not start (clogged drain filter, pipe or drain pump, malfunction of the drain pump, water level sensor or control board).
  • If the water drain is working properly, a failure may occur due to a problem that leads to a complete stop of the washing process (broken belt, malfunctioning heating element, engine or electronics).
  • Insufficient water pressure due to clogged filter or water intake pipe.

  • Some modes exclude automatic draining of water, so the machine simply stops.
  • Laundry has fallen into the centrifuge drain hole, blocking the drain completely.
  • The drain hose is bent and clogged.
  • The drain filter is clogged.
  • Drain pump clogged or defective.
  • Plugged pipes.
  • The sewer is clogged.
  • The pressure switch tubes are clogged or it is out of order, the module does not receive information about the presence of water in the tank, therefore it does not give a command for pumping out.
  • The control unit is out of order, does not give a command to turn on the pump (the triac of the pump or the triac of the pressure switch burned out on the board).

  • The wash mode is selected without spinning.
  • The delicate mode is on.
  • The drum is overloaded with linen.
  • Kinked or blocked drain hose.
  • Clogged drain filter or communications.
  • Drain pump clogged or defective.
  • Water level sensor defective.
  • The tachometer responsible for the engine speed is faulty, so the drum does not develop the required speed for normal spinning.
  • The drum bearing is worn out.
  • The engine brushes are worn out.
  • The control module is out of order.

  • Excessive vibration at high speeds is fraught with breakage for many components!
  • The machine you just bought will shake unless the transport bolts are removed, which are located at the back and are designed to secure the drum during transport.
  • Washing machine legs are screwed on unevenly
  • The machine must be on a level and non-slip floor, improper installation will cause shaking.
  • Unbalanced or overloaded laundry (uneven distribution of items in the drum).
  • Strong knocks and vibrations appear due to faulty shock absorbers and spring mechanisms.
  • Shaking and knocking during spinning also occurs due to the weakened fastenings of the counterweights (over time, the process of their destruction begins in the places of the fastenings).
  • Worn bearings lead to the fact that at first there is a grinding sound, and then the spinning begins to be accompanied by strong vibration and shaking.

  • Excessive vibration at high speeds leads to breakdowns of various components!
  • If a new washing machine vibrates and jumps, the reason may be in the transit bolts.
  • Washing machine feet are screwed on unevenly.
  • Improper installation on uneven or slippery surfaces (check if the clipper staggers when turned off).
  • An overloaded drum will vibrate violently during spinning.
  • Large items become lumpy on one side of the drum and cause severe imbalance.
  • The drum bearings are worn out (a loud rumble is heard, the machine rattles and jumps).
  • The mountings are loose or the concrete base of the counterweight is cracked (knocking is heard during operation).
  • Wear of the springs on which the tank hangs (over time, they stretch and lose their elasticity).
  • The shock absorbers are worn out (press your hand on the tank, if it quickly snapped into place, then everything is in order with the shock absorbers and springs).

  • A program without spinning is on.
  • The load of laundry has been exceeded and an imbalance has occurred in the tub.
  • The water does not drain out after washing or the remaining water is still in the drum, so the spinning cannot start (the pressure switch is faulty, the drain system is clogged, problems with the drain pump).
  • The washing machine has stopped due to a breakdown (the drive belt has fallen off or broken, the drum pulley is damaged, the drum bearing is worn out, the electric motor brushes are worn out, the tachogenerator does not work).
  • A defective control board does not give the correct command to start spinning.

  • Some programs do not automatically drain the water, so the machine stops.
  • The drain hose is located above the tank level.
  • The hose is bent or clogged, so water cannot go down the drain.
  • The drain filter is clogged.
  • Drain pipe clogged.
  • The drain pump is clogged or faulty (often hair and threads are wound around the impeller, because of which the pump wedges and does not pump water, the machine, trying to drain the water, hums and cracks).
  • The sewer is clogged.
  • The pressure switch tubes are clogged or it is out of order, the control module does not receive information about the amount of water in the tank.

  • Malfunction of the water supply system.
  • Incorrect connection of the drain hose.
  • Clogging of the drain system (filter, pump, pipes).
  • Breakage of the water level sensor (pressure switch).
  • Failure of the heating element.
  • The washing machine stuck on one program due to a malfunction of the electronic control unit.

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